If you're trying to clean up the look of a Squarebody, getting the 81-87 c10 side molding right is one of those small details that makes a massive difference in how the truck sits. It's funny how a few strips of aluminum and plastic can be the difference between a truck that looks like a finished project and one that still looks like a work in progress. These trucks have such a boxy, iconic silhouette that the trim acts almost like an accent line, breaking up those big flat panels of steel and giving the body some much-needed dimension.
Most of us who own these trucks know the struggle. You buy an old C10 that's been sitting in a field or a garage for a decade, and the first thing you notice is that the side molding is either missing, dented, or peeling away like a bad sunburn. The 81-87 era was a bit of a transition for Chevy. They were moving away from the heavy, bolt-on trim of the 70s and towards stuff that was lighter and, unfortunately, often held on by nothing but high-strength double-sided tape and a few clips.
Why the Molding Matters for the Squarebody Look
When you look at an 81-87 C10, that side molding is what defines the "beltline" of the truck. It runs from the front fender, across the doors, and all the way back to the tail lights. Without it, the truck can look a little "naked," especially if it's a two-tone paint job. On two-tone trucks, that molding is actually the divider. It's the physical barrier between the primary color and the secondary color. If you've ever seen a C10 with a fresh two-tone paint job but no trim, it just looks unfinished.
The 81-87 c10 side molding usually features a black or woodgrain center strip surrounded by a bright aluminum or chrome-looking edge. By the mid-80s, the "blacked-out" look was becoming more popular, so you see a lot of these trucks with the black insert. It's a classic look that fits the era perfectly. It isn't just about vanity, though; those strips actually do a decent job of protecting your doors from dings in grocery store parking lots.
The Struggle with Original Trim
Finding original, "new old stock" (NOS) molding is becoming a bit like hunting for Bigfoot. If you do find it, you're going to pay a premium. The problem with original 81-87 c10 side molding is that the plastic components tend to shrink over time. The black vinyl inserts get brittle from forty years of sun exposure, and eventually, they start to crack or just fly off while you're cruising down the highway.
I've seen plenty of guys try to save their original trim by polishing the aluminum and spray-painting the black centers. It works for a "ten-footer"—a truck that looks great from ten feet away—but once you get up close, you can see the age. The aluminum gets pitted, and the adhesive backing eventually gives up the ghost. If your trim is falling off, don't just keep slapping more glue on it. At some point, it's just better to bite the bullet and look into a full replacement kit.
Choosing a Replacement Kit
When you start shopping for a new set, you'll realize there are a few different ways to go. You can buy individual pieces if you just have one damaged fender, or you can buy a complete kit that covers both sides of the truck. Most people go for the kit because, let's be honest, if one piece is faded, the rest of them probably are too.
You'll also need to know your bed length. A short bed (fleetside) and a long bed use different lengths for that rear section behind the wheel well. It sounds obvious, but you'd be surprised how many people accidentally order the wrong set. Also, pay attention to the width. The 81-87 c10 side molding is generally thinner than what you'd find on a 1975 model, so you want to make sure you're getting the year-correct style for your specific body.
One thing to look out for in the aftermarket world is the quality of the finish. Some cheaper kits use a very thin plastic that doesn't quite have the same "weight" or shine as the factory stuff. If you're building a show truck, you'll want to spend a little extra on the high-end reproductions that use real extruded aluminum.
Tips for a Clean Installation
Installing 81-87 c10 side molding isn't exactly rocket science, but it's one of those jobs where if you rush it, you're going to be annoyed every time you walk up to your truck. The most important part of the whole process isn't even the molding itself—it's the prep work.
If you're replacing old trim, you've got to get every single bit of the old adhesive off the paint. A 3M eraser wheel (sometimes called a "toffee wheel") is a lifesaver here. It hooks up to your drill and zips that old foam tape right off without burning your paint. Once the old gunk is gone, hit the area with some wax and grease remover. If there's even a hint of old wax or road grime left, that new molding is going to start peeling within a month.
When it comes time to actually stick the new stuff on, use a piece of painter's tape to create a straight line across the entire side of the truck. Don't trust your eyes. These trucks have long, flat sides, and if the molding is off by even a quarter of an inch, it'll look crooked. Start at the front and work your way back, making sure the gaps between the fender, door, and bed are consistent. You want the trim to look like one continuous line, not a series of jagged steps.
The Difference Between "Clips" and "Tape"
By the time 1981 rolled around, Chevy was using a lot more adhesive and fewer physical clips. However, some pieces—especially the ones on the fenders—might still use a metal clip or a stud with a nut on the back. When you're removing your old 81-87 c10 side molding, don't just rip it off. Check behind the fender or inside the door to see if there are any hidden fasteners.
If your new kit is "tape-on" only, but your truck has holes from original clips, you have a choice to make. You can fill the holes and paint them (which is a lot of work), or you can just make sure the new molding is wide enough to cover the holes completely. Most quality kits are designed to be a direct replacement, so they should cover the factory mounting points without any issues.
Final Thoughts on the Finishing Touch
It's easy to get bogged down in engine swaps and suspension lifts, but the exterior trim is really what gives a C10 its personality. Fresh 81-87 c10 side molding makes the truck look "tight." It ties the whole design together, especially if you have other chrome bits like the bumpers and mirrors to match.
If you're on the fence about spending the money, just think about how much time you spend looking at the side of your truck. It's the first thing people see when you're pulling into a meet or just sitting at a red light. Taking a Saturday afternoon to get that trim lined up and stuck on straight is one of the most rewarding "cheap" mods you can do. It doesn't add any horsepower, sure, but it adds a whole lot of pride in your ride. Plus, there's nothing quite like the feeling of peeling the protective blue plastic off a brand-new piece of trim and seeing that shiny aluminum catch the light for the first time.